Find Mountain Glory—Not Crowds—On These 5 Canadian Rockies Hikes

Nature lovers flock to Banff for its massive mountain views, endless trail access, and ability to watch wildlife everywhere you go. It’s clear why this wilderness playground in Alberta lands at the top of the list as one of the most iconic adventure destinations in the world. But as Canada’s most well-traveled national park booms with peak-season crowds, a lesser-traveled oasis on the frontrange of the Canadian Rockies awaits,

Kananaskis—aka “The Gateway to Banff”—runs wild with day-long treks to turquoise alpine lakes, multiday hikes to mountain summits, and crowdless trails throughout the entire region. Explore a quieter alternative with equally stunning scenery in vast wilderness areas like Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Spray Valley Provincial Park, and Bow Valley Wildland Provincial Park, and up to favorite local lookouts like Ha Ling Peak.

Get your Canadian Rockies fix without the crowds along these scenic hiking trails in Alberta’s Kananaskis Country.

Chester Lake Trail

• Location: Peter Lougheed Provincial Park
• Trail Type: Out-and-Back
• Mileage: 6.2 miles

Most visitors to Alberta see alpine lakes in places like Lake Louise, where the trails are moderate but the crowds are unbelievable. But enjoying an alpine lake lookout doesn’t always require braving crowds (or hiking steep mountain trails). Swap a strenuous backcountry trek for a more manageable dayhike to Chester Lake in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, one of the largest provincial parks in Canada. This Kananaskis Country classic earns its place on hikers’ itineraries because it has peak-filled panoramas with a fraction of the crowds compared to other popular spots like Black Prince Cirque and Lillian Lake. Along the route, you’ll walk through mixed pine and larch forest at the foot of 10,000-foot giants including Mt. Chester, Mt. Galatea, and Gusty Peak. All seasons at Chester Lake are worthwhile: Receding snow ushers in an explosion of yellow glacier lilies across subalpine alpine meadows by July; larch trees turn from bright green to vivid gold by mid-September; A feathery crystal blanket of surface hoar covers the landscape by November. (Heads up: Chester Lake Trail is closed annually from May 1 to June 29 to prevent trail damage during muddy season.)

Headwall Lakes Loop Trail

• Location: Peter Lougheed Provincial Park
• Trail Type: Loop
• Mileage: 10.5 miles

Up for a bigger challenge? Link the Headwall Lakes Trail to Chester Lake Trail for a loop through Kananaskis’s remote and rugged backcountry. You can tackle the 10.5-mile trip in a day, as long as you’re up for logging 2,800 feet in elevation gain with steep scree scrambles and arduous boulder fields. Trust us: It’s worth it. From the Chester Lake parking lot, head counter-clockwise on the Headwall Lakes Loop Trail through pine- and spruce-packed forest before breaking out onto an exposed path. On the roundtrip journey that passes both Headwall Lakes (upper and lower) and Chester Lake, you’ll pass cascading waterfalls, pocket meadows crammed with purple and white columbine and fleabane, and limestone-surrounded cirques. Peak baggers can (literally) go the extra mile and summit Fortress Mountain: A spur trail at the intersection of Headwall Lakes Trail and Chester Lake Trail near the halfway point ascends 700 feet to its apex.

Tent Ridge Loop

• Location: Spray Valley Provincial Park
• Trail Type: Loop
• Mileage: 6.3 miles

If scree scrambles, rewarding summit climbs, and unobstructed ridgeline views are your vibe, hit up Tent Ridge Trail. You’ll log over 2,100 feet of elevation gain on this trail that shows off the glacier-carved valley surrounding Spray Lakes Reservoir every step of the way. What this trail lacks in wildflowers and foliage, it makes up for in epic Canadian Rockies scenery. The capstone of this hike is the panoramic views you’ll soak in while walking the crest to Tent Ridge Summit—the route’s halfway point—and beyond. Exposed hiking and light scrambling on the horseshoe-shaped ridgeline may challenge beginner hikers, but those daring enough to push through won’t regret it. Tent Ridge Trail isn’t the busiest hike in Kananaskis country, but it’s certainly popular: For that reason, get to the trailhead early and catch alpenglow lighting up the face of Mt. Nestor, Mt. Fortune and Cone Mountain as you climb to the summit.  For the best views and safest route, hike clockwise and avoid this trail in winter due to high avalanche risk.

Ha Ling Peak

• Location: Bow Valley Wildland Provincial Park
• Trail Type: Out-and-Back
• Mileage: 4.8 miles

If you’re Banff-bound after exploring Kananaskis Country, this local favorite makes a great pit stop. (We get it, that iconic view of Lake Louise from the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise is on our bucket list, too). You’ll need willpower, not technical skill, to tackle this trail: The 2,600-foot climb trailhead to summit ends with a bird’s-eye view of downtown Canmore and a unique vantage of some of the Canadian Rockies’ most picturesque peaks, including Mt. Rundle and Cascade Mountain in the distance over the Bow Valley. En route, keep an eye out for the pine marten, bighorn sheep, and elk that call this mountain home. You can also add on the nearby Grassi Lakes Trail to double up your dayhikes. The family- and beginner-friendly 2.1-mile out-and-back leads to a set of crystal-clear alpine lakes at the base of Ha Ling Peak.

Heart Creek to Quaite Valley

• Location: Bow Valley Wildland Provincial Park
• Trail Type: Out-and-Back
• Mileage: 6.6 miles

With only a handful of backcountry campgrounds in Kananaskis, dayhikes are generally an easier way to see the sights than backpacking. But the hike to Quaite Valley Backcountry Campground in Bow Valley Wildland Provincial Park near Canmore stands out for its accessibility with all the perks of the backcountry—alpine streams, wildflower meadows, wildlife run-ins, and all. Perfect for families or first-time backpackers, the mostly flat Quaite Valley Trail starts with a vantage of the Three Sisters and Bow River before heading into dense boreal forest. Ironically, the first 1.8 miles from Heart Creek trailhead parallel the 15,0000-mile Trans Canada Trail (TCT)—the world’s longest thru-hike. Make Quaite Valley Backcountry Campground your basecamp with several jumping-off points for day hikes along Jewel Pass Trail and Prairie View Trail. (Looking for a more direct access route? Take the Quaite Creek trail 1.25 miles (one way) straight to the campground.)

Gear for Kananaskis Country

While you can hike year-round in Kananaskis, there are some important weather and wildlife considerations to take note of. Temperatures range between the high30s to upper-60s (Fahrenheit) in the spring, low-40s and upper-70s in the summer, and around 50 degrees down to 30 degrees come fall. In winter, expect daytime temperatures as high as 30 and low as 10 degrees at night. Many trails close in the winter months due to avalanche risk. Check trail closures online before heading out. Pack crampons (or snowshoes) when hiking lower elevation trails during winter and bring bear spray with you year-round.

Where to stay

The closer you get to Banff, the more crowded (and expensive) accommodations will be. Local campgrounds are challenging to book with the recent surge of visitors over the last few years. Consider renting a yurt, cabin or private room at Mount Engadine Lodge near Spray Lakes Provincial Park for a secluded wilderness stay. Daily homemade meals and afternoon tea and charcuterie are included. Want a more urban-centered experience? Opt for the Lady Macdonald Country Inn in the heart of Canmore, a cozy bread and breakfast on the edge of the Kananaskis Country and Banff National Park.

Permits

A valid Kananaskis Conservation Pass is required for public use and parking within Kananaskis Country and the Bow Valley region. Passes can be purchased in advance online or in person at the Canmore Nordic Center. ($15 for a day pass or $90 for an annual pass.) Pass sales help fund environmental stewardship projects, public safety enforcement, and services and facilities management within the Kananaskis Provincial Parks.